August 1-12, 2024
This month, the first synod groups headed to Peru since 2019. Five years and a pandemic ago! St. Paul Lutheran Church in Columbus, Texas took a mob of youth and adults the last week in July and the Gulf Coast and La Crosse Area Synods took a group the first week of August.
- Pastor Cassandra Nagle, LOL The Woodlands, TX
- Mark Fincher, LOL The Woodlands, TX
- Pastor Stan Larson, St. Paul La Grange, TX
- Pastor Kris Crawford, St. Paul La Grange, TX
- Claire Carver, Holy Comforter, Kingwood, TX
- Bishop Mike Rinehart
- Bishop Felix Malpica, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Barbara Oettel, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Drew Shonka, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Greg Attleson, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Irene TenEyck, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Jennifer Carr, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Laura Cunliffe, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Lynn Joholski, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Melissa Erickson, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Nancy Solberg, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
- Sharon Pfaff, LaCrosse Area Synod, WI
Some history
July 28 is Independence Day in Peru. Peru won its independence from Spain July 28, 1821, 203 years ago. Festivities continue into August.
Francisco Pizarro executed the Incan Smperor Atahuallpa and took control of the Incan Capital of Cusco in 1536. That date, and Independence Day in 1521 are how historians divide Peruvian history into three periods.
Ancient Peru/Pre-Columbian history begins with cave wall writings dated to 10,000 B.C. But scholarly consensus is that there is activity as far back as 14,000 B.C. Peru was home to the oldest civilization in the Americas, the Norte Chico civilization. The first city dates to 3,500 B.C. They built pyramids 2700-2600 B.C., same time as and perhaps older than the Djoser Step Pyramid in Egypt.
The Incan Empire was the last of several empires and periods, and short-lived at that (60 years).
Vasco Núñez de Balboa arrived at the Pacific Ocean in 1513, but Francisco Pizarro didn’t arrive until 1524. His small band did not frighten King Atahuallpa. Catholic priests tried to convert him to no avail. Pizarro insisted he submit to Spain. When he didn’t, Pizarro executed Atahuallpa and occupied Cusco.
The second period is called Viceroyalty or the Colonial Period. Not much to say. It was oppressive for 300 years, but a new race of people was born of local indigenous peoples, Europeans, Africans, and Asians.
The Republic or the Modern Period is the final era. Independence Day is July 28, 1821, when independence was declared, but it was not until the battle of Ayacucho three years later that inference was secured, so some say this year is the bicentennial.
Peru experienced massive immigration in the 20th century. Sendero Luminoso (Shining Path) of the communist party ravaged Peru in the 1980’s. Their goal was to defeat socialism with pure communism over socialism, through brutal violence. Their leaders were captured in the early 90’s. The movement’s center is now a park dedicated to love.
School is out for Independence Day, so our Peruvian friends tell us it is the best time to come and visit. We interact with church members, learn about the culture and history, and participate in a children’s festival for over 100 kids. We learn from each other.
Thursday, August 1, 2024 – Travel
The flight is six hours from Houston to Lima.
One part of the group arrived August 1 around midnight. We were met by Pastor Jorge Mateo (Lukas).
It is winter in the southern hemisphere, so we left 95° in Houston and arrived at 60° in Lima.
Friday, August 2, 2024 – Welcome
In the morning after strong coffee and a hearty breakfast, we headed to Belén (Bethlehem) lutheran Church in Lima, to meet with church leaders, make introductions, go over the plan for the week, and to prepare for the children’s festival tomorrow.
It was fun to see Pastor Pedro Bullón wearing the Texas Lutheran University East he received at our Theological Conference in 2017.
Lima is one of the culinary capitals of the world. We enjoyed lunch at a local restaurant that had incredible Peruvian cuisine. Ceviche, causa de langostinos, and more. Price? Like $12 pp.
Tried to keep my birthday on the DL, but thanks to the internet, they smoked it out.
We began the day by gathering in the morning for devotions and were joined by Pastors Irene, Pedro, Ofelia, Ana Maria, Jorge Mateo, and lay leaders Zulamita and Jesus Gomez.
When we got back to the hotel that afternoon we took time to walk, rest, purchase some supplies, and then we met again to finish planning for tomorrow.
Saturday, August 3, 2024 – Children’s Festival
Music, Word, prayer, food, and activities. Like a VBS gig, we had four stations, through which the various age groups rotated. One group was origami. Another was games. One was paining the mural. One was friendship bracelets.
Painting the mural was very popular.
Closing worship and song.
A tear-jerker was giving the photo to Ana Maria Jara of Tracy Mikes who passed away last year. Not a dry eye. Tracy, from Grace Conroe, was a stalwart supporter of the congregation at San Juan, and of Pastor Ana Maria. Thank you Dennis and Heidi and family for sending this along.
In the evening, a group went out to see the Independence Day festivities in the park. The power was out in most of the local restaurants, but we found a place with power, a Cuban restaurant (Son de Cuba) with fantastic food and incredible music. I’m not gonna say it was fun, but, okay it was fun.
On the way, we ran into Freddy Mercury
Sunday, August 4, 2024 – Visiting Churches
Sunday we divided up and went to five different congregations:
1. Cristo Salvador (Christ the Savior): Barb, Irene, and Laura. Pastor: Jorge Mateo. 10:00 am service.
2. Filadelphia (Philadelphia): Cassandra, Mark, Mike, and Claire. Pastor: Ofelia Dávila. 11:00 am service. Filadelfia is a companion with Lord of Life in The Woodlands.
3. San Juan Camino de Esperanza (St. John Way of Hope): Nancy, Drew, and Felix. Pastor: Ana Maria Jara. 10:30 am service. San Juan is a companion with Grace, Conroe.
4. El Buen Pastor (Good Shepherd). Greg, Sharon, Missy. Pastor: Pedro Bullón. 10:00 am service.
5. Belén (Bethlehem): Jennifer, Lynn, Stan, Chris. Pastor: Irene Ponce. 11:00 am worship.
Barb, Irene, and Laura went to Cristo Salvador, where Pastor Jorge Mateo serves. We rode along with them in Moises’ van, so I popped in to greet pastor and president.
After worship, Barb, Irene, and Laura met with church leaders.
Filadelfia
This church was founded 45 years ago in 1979 by LCA missionaries Frederick and Eleanor Wolff.
Pastora Adita Torres served the congregation for 15 years until she died during the pandemic. Below are photos of Ofelia and Adita when they were young.
They presented gifts to the Lord of Life folks (and also to Claire and me)
Nancy, Drew, and Felix went to San Juan Camino de Esperanza, where Pastor Ana Maria Jara serves.
Jennifer, Lynn, Chris, and Stan went to Belén, (Bethlehem) Lutheran Church in Breña.
Greg, Sharon, and Lynn went to El Buen Pastor, where Pastor Pedro Bullón serves.
Later in the day…
After worship, lunch, then conversations with congregations, and in some cases walks through the community, we returned to the hotel a little bit before dinner. Some rested while others walked.
After dinner the group gathered around 8:00 to check in and process the profound experiences of the last two days.
Monday, August 5, 2024 – Meeting with Peruvian church leaders and some cultural immersion
Tuesday, August 6 – Cultural Learning
In the morning we drove to the main square, La Plaza de Armas for the Cathedral museum and the Museum of the Convent of San Juan and the catacombs.
The first part of the cathedral is a memorial to Francisco Pizarro, who founded the city and established the square, with its cathedral, bishops palace, presidential palace, and city hall. But he was brutal, so this was troubling. It’s a complicated history here in Cusco, Peru, the capital of the Incan Empire, which was the largest empire in the world in 1500.
Unsure if the organ is in use. Clearly the original console isn’t. there is a covered console that looks newer. Some pipes are disformed.
The Convent of San Francisco and Catacombs
Wednesday, August 7, 2024 – To Cusco
We left the hotel at 4:30 am to arrive at the airport by 6 am to catch an 8 am flight. Yikes. We had a bit of a struggle with the baggage limitations but we made it to Cusco, deep in the Andres.
Saqsaywaman
This fortress was built by Sapa Inca Pachacuti in the 15th century before the Spanish arrived.
Pukapukara
To understand a people you must understand their history and respect their culture.
Thursday, August 8, 2024 – Machu Picchu
This was a long day. We met in the lobby at 5:30 to take the bus to the train (3+ hours) to the bus up to Machu Picchu. Oh my. Some were already suffering from altitude sickness, and one of our group stayed back. Fortunately, the trip descends from 11,000 feet to 8,000 feet. The train views were spectacular.
Aguas Calientes
The train arrived in Aguas Calientes, a charming town on the Urubamba River that has been overrun by tourists coming to visit Machu Picchu.
Machu Picchu
The bus ride up the mountain is not for the faint of heart.
But it’s worth it…
Friday, August 9, 2024
In the morning our group headed to Talitha Kum Lutheran Church, geolocation -13.5463244, -71.9537840. It was a joy to see some of these folks again after so many years.
After being served by Pastora Ofelia many years; they were served by Missionary Dana Nelson for two years, but have been without a pastor since the before the pandemic. The pastor in Lima offer online services and provide support. Once a month a pastor comes to preside at table. Children’s ministries take place on Saturdays. They get about 15-30 kids. They closed during the pandemic.
They had a food kitchen from 2008 to 2012 to provide meals for hungry families, especially children.
At 3:30 we had a final gathering of the entire group. There were joyful and tearful reflections on our time with the Peruvian church and fellowship as Gulf Coast and LaCrosse Area Synods.
At 4:00 the Wisconsin folks headed down to the sidewalk with their luggage, but our ride never arrived, so we ordered up three taxis which left at 5:00 for the 7pm flight. After some hassles with the malfunctioning checkin kiosks, they just barely made their flight from Lima to Miami, which would then head on to Chicago. Irene and Drew extended their stay in Lima for a few days to check out Iglesia El Buen Pastor and see more of Lima.
After the departure of the Wisconsin folks, we had eight left, six Texans plus Bishop Felix and ILP Councilmember Jesús Gomez. We gathered for a bit then headed to dinner, followed by a visit to the Cathedral and some last minute shopping.
Cusco at night has a haunting, romantic, other-worldly feeling from a former age.
Saturday, August 10, 2024
In the morning out Texas group with Bishop Felix and Mr. Gomez headed to San Francisco square where a small market was going on. We enjoyed the kids dancing and visiting the church.
Then we were off to St. Peter Square, under the St. Clair arch to the gigantic St. Peter Market.
We ate a phenomenal lunch of pollo a la brasa. On our way home from lunch, we popped into a church where we watched a wedding.
At 3:00 our group of eight headed to the airport for a 6:30 pm flight from Cusco back to Lima.
Once in Lima, the Texans (Claire, Cassandra, Stan, Kris, and Mark) caught their 12:55 am redeye flight back to Houston, while Bishops Mike and Felix, and ILP Council member Jesús Gomez headed to the district of Jesús María for a good night’s sleep before the retreat with the pastors and council.
Sunday, August 11, 2024 – Retreat
At 7:30 am I led devotions:
Our conversations reviewed the status of our three church bodies in Peru, Texas and Wisconsin. We wrestled with our various challenges and imagined our work together over the next year. Wendy Leyva shared her intention to begin the process of becoming a pastor.
We closed with the Eucharist and bade some joyful and tearful goodbyes.
After the retreat, Felix and I headed to the airport for our redeye flights home.
My flight began boarding at midnight and left late after some repairs, around 1:30 am, for a six and a half hour flight home, arriving around 7:30 am.
